The Moroccan kaftan is a long, one-piece dress, open at the front and closed by a row of small buttons, worn at weddings, engagements, the henna night or for Eid. Cut from velvet, brocade, satin or crepe, it is recognised by its finishes: the sfifa braid, the aakad buttons, the gold-thread embroidery. Its craftsmanship has been inscribed on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage since 10 December 2025.
What is a Moroccan kaftan?
The kaftan is a loose dress that falls to the ankles, with long sleeves that often flare at the wrist. It has neither a closed collar nor a hood. It opens at the front and fastens with a long row of passementerie buttons, the aakad, edged by a braided trim, the sfifa. It is worn on its own, straight and fluid, or drawn in at the waist by a belt, the mdamma.
Three features set it apart from other Moroccan garments. Unlike the djellaba, it has no hood. It is made of a single piece, whereas the takchita layers two. And it is a garment for celebrations: its fabrics and embroidery reserve it for special occasions, while the djellaba and the gandoura are worn every day. Our guide to traditional Moroccan dress places the kaftan among the other pieces, and the article kaftan or takchita explains what separates it from the takchita.
Where does the kaftan come from?
The word entered French in the 16th century, in the form “cafetan”. It comes from the Turkish qaftan, the robe of honour, itself borrowed from the Persian khaftan. The garment, a long tunic open at the front, travelled from Persia to the Ottoman Empire, from the Maghreb to Central Asia, changing its cut at every stage.
In Morocco, historians recognise several influences in it. An Andalusian heritage is attested from the 15th century. In the 16th century, the Saadian court adopted dress customs from Istanbul, without Morocco ever becoming an Ottoman province. The kaftan then settled in the cities: long and straight in Fez, adorned with embroidery and braids of gold thread, it was shorter and fuller in Tetouan. It is at the same court, under Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour, that the custom of wearing a light tunic over the kaftan is placed, from which the takchita would be born.
| Period | Milestone |
|---|---|
| Origins | Long tunic attested in Persia, spread under the Abbasids and then in the Ottoman Empire |
| 15th century | Andalusian heritage attested in Morocco |
| 16th century | Ottoman influences at the Saadian court; birth of the takchita under Ahmed al-Mansour (1578-1603) |
| 20th century | The kaftan enters couture workshops and the catwalk |
| 10 December 2025 | Inscription of the Moroccan kaftan on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage |
The Moroccan kaftan on UNESCO's heritage list
On 10 December 2025, UNESCO inscribed “The Moroccan kaftan: art, traditions and know-how” on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, at the 20th session of its Intergovernmental Committee (decision 20.COM 7.b.33). The nomination, submitted by Morocco, describes a long tunic with a central opening and decorative buttons, worn at any age at weddings, naming ceremonies, rites of passage and festivals.
The inscription recognises a chain of crafts rather than an object: the weavers of brocade, velvet and silk, the tailors, the makers of buttons and braids, the embroiderers. It highlights a transmission that runs through the family and the workshop, and today through fashion schools. Like every inscription on the intangible heritage list, it protects living practices; it does not name any country as the owner of a garment that is also worn, in other forms, elsewhere in the Maghreb.
Which fabrics for a kaftan?
The fabric determines the drape, the season and the degree of formality. Six fabrics come up again and again in Moroccan workshops.
| Fabric | What it brings | When to wear it |
|---|---|---|
| Velvet | Deep colour, structure, gold-thread embroidery that stands out clearly | Winter weddings, evening celebrations |
| Brocade | Patterns woven into the fabric, often with metallic threads | Ceremonial outfits, takchita jackets |
| Satin | Shiny surface, soft drape | Engagements, evening celebrations |
| Crepe | Matte look, fluid drape, does not cling | All year round, clean lines |
| Organza, chiffon | Lightness, transparency | Overlays, summer |
| Lace | Openwork, trims, relief | Bridal kaftans, finishes |
In our workshops in Fez, velvet is used for the gold-embroidered kaftans, brocade for the jackets of takchitas and kimonos, crepe for the most understated lines, satin and organza for the brighter kaftans.
Embroidery and finishes: the vocabulary of the kaftan
A kaftan is judged by its finishes. Four words are enough to read a piece.
The sfifa
The sfifa is a braided passementerie trim, made of silk or metallic thread, that edges the neckline, the front opening and the sleeves. It underlines the lines of the garment and reinforces its edges. Its regularity, from one end of the kaftan to the other, is the first sign of careful work.
The aakad
The aakad are the small passementerie buttons that close the kaftan. Shaped one by one, they pass through fine loops sewn onto the opposite edge. A ceremonial kaftan often has several dozen of them.
The skalli and the terz
Skalli is the gold or silver thread of ceremonial kaftans; it is used for the embroidery as well as for the sfifa. Each city also has its own embroidery, the terz. Terz fassi, from Fez, is worked in counted stitch, in a single colour, and looks identical on the right side and the reverse. Terz rbati, from Rabat, unfolds bouquets of flowers in bright colours. Meknes and Tetouan have their own stitches too.
The mdamma
The mdamma is the kaftan's belt: a plate of chased metal, gilded or silvered, sometimes set with stones, or a wide band of embroidered fabric. Optional on a kaftan, it is essential on a takchita, whose two pieces it holds together.
How to recognise a fine kaftan?
First, turn the embroidery over: careful work stays neat on the reverse, without pulled threads or thick knots. Then follow the sfifa along its whole length; it should lie straight, without rippling, and be neatly turned at the corners of the neckline. Fasten a few aakad: each button should hold on its own and pass through its loop without forcing. Weigh the fabric in your hand, because a good-quality velvet or brocade has body. Finally, look at the closed opening: the two edges should hang straight, without gaping between the buttons.
When to wear a kaftan?
The kaftan accompanies every Moroccan celebration, starting with the Moroccan wedding, from the proposal to the evening party. When one of the engaged couple is British, the formalities are gathered in our guide to getting married in Morocco. The bride changes kaftans several times during the night; our article on the outfits of the Moroccan bride follows their order. Guests choose it too, and the guest's outfit follows a few simple rules. It is also worn at engagements, the henna night, for Eid, a naming ceremony or a festive dinner.
The colour is chosen according to these moments, as our guide to kaftan colours explains. The outfit is completed with the belt and jewellery: see how to wear a kaftan. For size and cut, our guide to the plus-size kaftan includes the measurement chart.
How to care for an embroidered kaftan?
Velvet, crepe, organza and embroidery cannot take the washing machine or the tumble dryer: the kaftan goes to a professional dry cleaner. To remove creases, a garment steamer at low temperature is enough, held away from the embroidery. Store it on a wide hanger, in a cotton garment bag, away from light, which dulls metallic threads.
Caftan Paris: designed in Paris, made in our workshops in Fez
Caftan Paris designs its pieces in Paris and makes them in its own workshops in Fez. There, the maalems cut, embroider and assemble each piece: the sfifa is applied by hand, the aakad shaped one by one, the gold and silver embroidery worked stitch by stitch. We produce in small series, with no subcontracting. Browse our Moroccan kaftans, our takchitas and our kaftan kimonos, or read the story of the house.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a kaftan and a djellaba?
The djellaba is an everyday garment with long sleeves and a hood, worn by men and women alike. The kaftan has no hood, opens at the front with a row of buttons and is kept for celebrations: weddings, engagements, the henna night, Eid.
What is the difference between a kaftan and a takchita?
The kaftan is made of a single piece. The takchita layers two, the tahtia and the dfina, held together at the waist by the mdamma belt. More formal, it is the ceremonial outfit of the wedding.
Is the kaftan Moroccan?
The kaftan has been worn for centuries in several countries, from Persia to the Maghreb, with cuts and embroidery specific to each. The Moroccan kaftan has its own history, attested in Fez and Tetouan, and its craftsmanship has been inscribed by UNESCO since 10 December 2025. The inscription recognises practices, not the ownership of a garment.
Which fabric should you choose for a wedding kaftan?
Velvet and brocade for a winter evening or a ceremonial outfit, satin and crepe for a more fluid kaftan, organza and chiffon as an overlay, especially in summer. The embroidery matters too: gold thread stands out best on dark velvet.
What is the sfifa?
The sfifa is the braided passementerie trim that edges the neckline, the opening and the sleeves of a kaftan. It underlines the lines of the garment and reinforces its edges; its regularity is the mark of a carefully made piece.
How much does a Moroccan kaftan cost?
The price depends on the fabric, the embroidery and the working time: from a few dozen euros for a mass-produced model to several thousand for a hand-embroidered haute couture piece. At Caftan Paris, kaftans are priced between 140 and 250 euros (September 2026 prices).
How do you care for an embroidered kaftan?
Dry cleaning only, creases removed with gentle steam held away from the embroidery, stored on a wide hanger in a cotton garment bag, away from light.
Sources: UNESCO, “Le caftan marocain : art, traditions et savoir-faire”; Wikipedia, Caftan; Wikipedia, Caftan au Maroc; Gazelle Mag, “Terz, le succès de la broderie marocaine”.
Updated 16 September 2026.