To wear a kaftan well, everything starts at the waist: belted, it looks more formal; loose, it stays fluid. You then match it with one main piece of jewellery in the metal of the embroidery, shoes that last the whole evening and a hairstyle that clears the neckline when it is embroidered. Everything takes its cue from the ornament: the richer the embroidery, the more the rest steps back.
With or without a belt?
The belt changes the silhouette. Set at the natural waist, it gives the kaftan structure, defines the waist and makes it more formal: the choice for evening parties and weddings. Without a belt, the kaftan falls straight and fluid, more relaxed, a look that suits a henna night, a festive lunch or women who prefer not to mark the waist.
Three belts go with the kaftan. The mdamma, a plate of chased metal in gold or silver, is the most ceremonial. The belt in embroidered fabric, matched to the kaftan, stays discreet. The braided belt, in passementerie, is tied and follows every movement. In every case, the metal of the belt echoes that of the embroidery: gold with gold embroidery, silver with silver embroidery. See our kaftan belts.
What jewellery to wear with a kaftan?
An embroidered kaftan already carries a lot of shine: one main piece is enough, most often earrings. Choose it first in the metal of the embroidery, then in the colour of the outfit.
Gold and silver go with almost everything. For stones, the jewellery picks up the colour of the kaftan: emerald on green, navy blue or turquoise on blue, red or burgundy on red, nude or brown on beige, rose gold on pink. A white, ivory or grey kaftan calls for metal alone, with no coloured stone. Beyond two coloured pieces, the outfit becomes muddled.
| Kaftan colour | Metal | Stones |
|---|---|---|
| White, ivory, grey | Gold or silver, depending on the embroidery | None |
| Green, emerald | Gold | Emerald |
| Royal blue, midnight blue, turquoise | Gold or silver | Navy blue, turquoise |
| Red, burgundy | Gold | Red, burgundy |
| Beige, camel, taupe | Gold | Nude, brown |
| Pink, fuchsia | Rose gold or gold | Pink |
| Black | Metal of the embroidery | A single colour |
The neckline decides the rest. A V-neck leaves room for long earrings; a high collar or a heavily embroidered neckline needs no necklace. See our oriental earrings.
What shoes to wear under a kaftan?
The kaftan is worn long, to the ankle or to the floor: the height of the shoes sets the hem. Choose them before the fitting or the alteration, and wear the same pair on the day. For a wedding party, stable, moderate heels will last through the night and the dancing. For a henna night or a party at home, flat sandals or cherbils, babouche slippers embroidered with gold thread, stay in the spirit of the outfit.
What hairstyle with a kaftan?
The hairstyle follows the neckline. A high collar or an embroidered front panel up to the neck calls for a bun or an updo, which shows off the work. A V-neck allows hair worn loose or in waves. On the wedding day, the bride wears head jewellery chosen with the negafa; guests keep a simpler hairstyle, with at most an ornate clip or comb when the outfit is understated.
Wearing a kaftan with a headscarf
Long and with sleeves, the kaftan pairs naturally with a headscarf. Choose a light fabric, chiffon or crepe, that does not puff up around the face, and a colour taken from the embroidery or the braid trim rather than from the background. A mandarin collar or a closed neckline avoids layering an underdress. The jewellery then moves to the wrists and the belt, which become the points of light of the outfit.
Matching the outfit to the occasion
| Occasion | Kaftan | Belt | Jewellery | Shoes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wedding party | Embroidered, in velvet, satin or crepe | Metal mdamma | Statement earrings, bracelet | Stable heels |
| Henna night | Colourful, simpler | Fabric, braided or none | Light, gold-tone | Sandals or cherbils |
| Engagement | Elegant, light embroidery | Matching fabric | Discreet | Heels |
| Eid, festive lunch | Fluid crepe | Optional | A single piece | Sandals |
| Dinner, evening | Clean-lined, deep colour | Slim or none | Long earrings | Heels |
For guests, the rules specific to the wedding, including the colour to avoid, are set out in what to wear to a Moroccan wedding.
Wearing the kaftan beyond ceremonies
The kaftan is no longer reserved for ceremonies. A crepe design with light embroidery can be worn without a belt for a dinner, with flat sandals and a single piece of jewellery. The kimono kaftan, worn open over a plain dress, also suits a less formal evening. To choose your size and cut, see our guide to the plus-size kaftan; for fabrics and finishes, our guide to the Moroccan kaftan.
Frequently asked questions
Does a kaftan always need a belt?
No. The belt is optional on a kaftan: it marks the waist and dresses up the outfit, but the kaftan is also worn loose, straight and fluid. It is only essential on a takchita.
What jewellery goes with a gold-embroidered kaftan?
Gold jewellery, starting with earrings. If the embroidery is dense, a single piece is enough; the stones pick up the colour of the kaftan, emerald on green, red on red.
What jewellery goes with a white kaftan?
Metal alone, gold or silver depending on the embroidery, with no coloured stone, to keep the brightness of the white.
What heel height works with a kaftan?
Stable, moderate heels, chosen before the alteration, since their height sets the length of the hem. For a long evening, block heels are the safest.
What hairstyle suits a kaftan with a high collar?
A bun or an updo, which clears the collar and shows off the embroidery.
Can you wear a kaftan without a belt to a wedding?
Yes, especially as a guest: an embroidered kaftan falls beautifully without a belt. The belt remains the simplest way to make the outfit more formal.
Updated on 16 September 2026.